Baby-powdered evening faces of children and old men.

Non-gender specific colors worn by everyone!

Knees touching elbows when squatting to do laundry or washing dishes and the amazing flexibility that comes along with that.

Hack, hack, hack (meat cleaver) and bok, bok, bok (mortar and pestle) sounds.

Nose picking in public.

Red and purple toothless betel nut smiles

Doremon and fisherman pants worn by Thai villagers.

Sea of flip flops outside the temple.

Uncertainty.

Yellow string, white string and the ceremony for good luck.

Quiet strong opinions from women.

Isaan, laos, suai, campodian, wwhhhhhaat? So many languages to learn.

Rooster crow alarm clock.

Chirp, cricket, rustle, whiiir – the sounds of my house at night.

Beautiful Surin silk.

Ngoo and Noo! How to pronounce snake and rat. Da Jit running over whenever I say one of those words to help me!

Eh, hey, oooooiiii – vocal sounds!

Knowing smile, touch the arm; Connecting without speaking.

Scrunchies.

Growing out my hair and fun hair washing Saturday nights.

Pink curtains and square triangle pillows.

Bright flower shirts that we wear to match the color days of the week

Looking forward to 3-in-1 sugar filled coffee every morning.

Working until I’m tired and then napping.

Smiles through the windows that line my office front wall and an office desk piled high with snacks and development books.

Being at the mercy of the weather, even inside my house.

New additions to old houses…concrete, bedrooms, fans

Swirly, twirly, oddly colored floor tiles.

Da Jit calling me for dinner every night.

Dirty, dusty floors swept by amazing handmade brooms.

Fresh hand washed, somewhat clean laundry.

Reusable bags and knowing how to say “no bag please” in Thai.

The many different ways Thais pronounce me name…Kiss-tine, Kurstine, Kahristine.

No doubt that Thailand has impacted me. Many questions and decisions are following me around right now but I’m taking time to just be thankful for everything Thai. The people, the places, the country. Special doesn’t even begin to describe how I feel about this place. I’ve promised to come back in 2 or 3 years…so I guess see you soon Thailand.

HUGS!

-C

P.S. I am headed to Hawaii to see friends from college and hang out with Jahn for four days! Leaving one paradise for another…what a difficult life I lead

Lets talk about elephants, specifically elephants in Surin province in Thailand. Two years ago I learned that I would be living in the elephant province. I was thrilled! Without even realizing it, when people mentioned elephants an image of lush tropical forests popped into my head.

Before I begin sharing my experiences with elephants while living in Thailand, I need you to understand something. It took me two years to form the opinions I am about to share with you. No one who was with me while I experienced elephants in and out of captivity was a bad person, in all cases just excited by these majestic creature and the relationship they have to Thailand.

I’ll never forget my first experience with elephants; it was in Ampur Tatum in the elephant village. An elephant walked on me, massaged my back and really just scared the you-know-what out of me. It was part of an epic “Welcome to Surin!” day that my neighbor planned for me. At the time he was a high ranking government official in the district so he pulled some strings and got me into the show. Literally. We definitely bonded over the experience.  While I was there, I learned from the museum that elephants used to roam freely in Surin/Cambodia until the forests were cleared. As I understand it, wild elephants no longer exist in this province but because of the history and relationship Surin people have it is known as the elephant province. The mahouts (elephant handlers) find the best financial opportunity is entertainment so in November of each year, Surin hosts an international festival called the elephant round-up that boasts a Guinness World Record for largest elephant buffet.  You can also find elephants roaming the streets of Surin’s main city year round with their mahouts looking for tourists and locals who want to feed an elephants.

When my best friend visited Thailand later the next year, she expressed her interest in riding an elephant. At first this plan didn’t interest me but I knew that, like me when I first came to Thailand, she was fascinated by them and wanted to take advantage of the opportunity to experience them up close and personal.  We found a one-day program in Krabi province and spent a couple hours hanging out on an elephants back while they roamed around a giant farm eating and doing whatever they felt like doing. During the trip I had officially decided that if I wanted to form some sort of opinion about elephants in captivity, I needed to start asking questions. The mahout from Burma was really helpful and I came to understand how much he and his family cared for the elephants. The elephants seemed relaxed in my unprofessional opinion. We had a wonderful time and it was definitely a highlight from her visit.

I went back to the elephant village in Surin again earlier this year with my friends visiting from America. Like a proud community member, I wanted to share the culture I was living in. Plus, twins had recently been born and the Prime Minister of Thailand was planning a visit the next month to see them. We went again with the same neighbor and my friends participated in the show just like I did. After the show we were taken to the actual village behind the show. Most of the houses are on stilts and they have a sort of elephant parking spot like an open air garage where the elephants spend the day. I noticed at a couple houses, some of them were rocking back and forth which I later came to understand is a sign of stress. At the twin elephant house the new additions were absolutely adorable. We got to hang out with them and I used the opportunity to ask more questions.  I can’t remember the exact questions I asked but ultimately, this family was not rich and they thought of the elephants they owned as part of their family. Mirroring the conversation I had with the previous mahout in Karbi.  From the obvious relationship that the family had with the elephants it seemed like they really loved each other.

My next adventure into learning about elephants was visiting the Elephant Nature Park in Chiang Mai during my parents visit in November. I learned the history of elephants in Thailand, how intelligent elephants are and got a feed and bathe these amazing creatures. It was just the opportunity I needed to understand elephants in Thailand. I saw many of the characteristic relationships  between mahout and elephant that I had come to know. It was clear to me during that experience that the relationships between mahout and elephant are deeply personal and as an outsider I am not in a position to pass judgement. However, I would like to see as many elephants and mahouts in programs like the Elephant Nature Park where mahouts are financially rewarded and elephants are allowed to live as freely as possible.

So this is my story of how I came to understand the relationship between elephants and the country of Thailand. It is not a story of an activist or someone who feels very passionate about animals in general. It is my story about taking the time to ask questions and inform myself. From this point forward, not only with animals but in general, when I visit a tourist destination like Thailand I will do research in advance. I will learn about the organizations that are responsibly supporting the tourist draw and find ways to avoid tourist destinations that do not actively seek to protect that animals and the environment that are so important to their financial well being.

HUGS!

-C

P.S. I promise at least one more blog before I leave Thailand on the 27th!

My program manager came for a visit and to help her understand what I’ve been working on me and my counterpart made a PowerPoint showcasing all the projects we’ve completed. Many local leaders were invited to the meeting to see how all of the projects they have helped with connected. After the presentation it was question and answer time. My program manager played translator and I answered questions like a CHAMP even though I already answered most of them multiple times. Questions like “Christine do you want to marry a Thai man and live in Tambon That forever?” Then we got into some more serious questions about my projects and Pi Nang, my sassy host mom, chimed in with a quick “How can we get Christine to stay a third year?” Ooooooh yeah, I remembered mentioning that applying might be a possibility to her the previous week. I must have looked a little panicked being put on the spot. After some murmured discussion from the crowd, one of my favorite leaders started chanting “Third year, third year!” then a few others joined in. I had no idea that my community liked me that much, TRUE FACT.  I just figured they all saw me as the weirdo girl who bikes everywhere and always talks about garbage. ( How I will forever remember myself during my service.)  I got that feeling of overwhelming love I talked about in an earlier blog, I felt like I was vomiting emotion. It was also extremely gratifying that the leaders thought that the work I was participating in was worth an extra year or at least really enjoyed my company. At that moment, I knew it was time to face the possibility that staying a third year would be in everyone’s best interest.

Over the next few months I had million different conversations with you guys, visitors and my friends in the community. A third year was all I was thinking and talking about. Like the scene in Mean Girls when Cady is talking about Regina: “I was a woman possessed. I spent about 80% of my time talking about Regina, and the other 20% of the time, I was praying for someone else to bring her up so I could talk about her more. I could hear people getting bored with me, but I couldn’t stop. It just kept coming up like word vomit.” Except change “Regina” to “a third year” and “her” to “it”. Thanks for hanging in there with me guys. I finally got all the meetings taken care of and finished the application. It was stressful and overwhelming but after completing it, I felt like I had made the right decision.  I was also emotionally preparing to be away from friends and family for a third year.  I heard about Grammie and planned to spend a few weeks with her when I came home for a visit. I thought I had made my final decision but no matter how sure you are, there is always room for change.

It wasn’t until a conversation with one of my Aunts over Skype that I my decision got flip turned upside down.  In that moment, I knew the decision I wanted to make… Grammie. She is my last living grandmother and I haven’t spent more than a few weeks with her in my entire life. According to my Dad, she “was into Women’s lib before it was trendy”  – she is pretty amazing. Plus, she has entire albums filled with pictures of our family that are worth diving into. The most important realization I had was that if I stayed, I was ignoring so much of what my Thai community had taught me – the importance of family.

Grammie might not remember me while I’m there but I will be utilizing another skill my community taught me, just “being there”.  I have learned that so much can be communicated without words. So even if I spend the few months just sitting with her, I know we will both benefit. *Added Bonus: I get to hang out with my aunts, cousins, second cousins and the rest of my family that lives in California.

What about Tambon That? I have definitely enriched the community and helped spread the word about the environment and waste reduction. Some of the projects we’ve worked on will continue and some will not. The good news is that my community was great before I got here and will be great after I leave. They have really intelligent leadership and are moving in a positive direction. Change doesn’t happen overnight and I will probably never know how I made an impact. What they really need is English teaching trainers so I have setup a session to talk to the local principals about how to apply for another PCV. I’m also looking into other options.

The (Thai) elephant in the room that a few people have brought up is the fact that job hunting will be put on hold during my time with Grammie. Luckily for me, I’ve spent the last 1.5+ years discovering that I love the environment, specifically reducing and reusing waste. I am also confident in my skill set and know that if I need to pick up a few restaurant jobs to keep myself afloat, I’ll do it. The right job is out there for me, no doubt.  A few months spending quality time with Grammie won’t change that.

So I’m going to put this third year discussion to rest and start preparing to say goodbye to a community that has shown me how to live my life to the fullest and shows love no matter the language.

HUGS!

C

P.S. Chuck and Kel arrive in a little over 12 days. SO EXCITED!

This is inspired by a visit from friends who took some great videos during their trip to Thailand.  My Dad saw the videos and said that they gave him a new perspective on my service. So I thought I would start showing my face a little a more! Plus, I’m not that great at writing blogs but I’m not giving up. Just spicing it up a bit!

HUGS!

-C

Garbage was on my radar from day one in Thailand. It seemed to be everywhere. I couldn’t tell the difference between the small organized piles and the strewn about forgotten garbage.  I just knew that when I walked through the community forest near Pi Nang’s house trying to get my nature-zen moment on, it was really annoying. In response, I started composting at my house. I sorted my recycling the best I could and eventually had to give the remainder to Da Jit to burn in his garbage burn pile.  It made me sad every time I had to give him something to burn. “Their has to be a better way!” I kept thinking.  I started asking other volunteers in my area about it. Each of our local communities have a different way of dealing with trash. Together we eventually “joined” the environment group ROOT (When I say “joined” I mean we took it over!) to get some answers.  This is what we found out — thanks to ROOT’s Peace Corps wiki page for the explanation!

“Often times, volunteers think that their communities do not recycle because there is not municipal recycling like what we are used to in the United States. In reality, recycling occurs in most communities in Thailand, just by different means. In Thailand, there are several different levels of recycling. If you happen to be in an area that has municipal recycling, they will most likely come on a separate day to collect the recycling, perhaps exchanging the recyclable materials for eggs or money. In some areas, such as Bangkok, recyclable materials are collected with the trash and separated later by municipal staff. If there is not a formal collection service by the municipal government, some areas may have recycling banks sponsored by the municipality or schools. These follow the “drop-off” model and may or may not pay for the recyclables. Often, if it is a recycling bank sponsored by a school, the students at the school will receive money for the recyclables they bring to the bank.

If you don’t have either of these more formal recycling methods in your community, you most likely will have recycling “scavengers”. These folks drive/walk around town, root around in the trash and dig out the recyclable materials and sell them to the local collection point. These folks will also go to landfills and root around there and pick out recyclables. So, even if you don’t think you have recycling in your town, you probably do, and you can help the effort by sorting your recycling and leaving it out by the road. I guarantee that some one will come by and collect it.

We’ve talked about the collectors, now let’s move on to the collection points. Once the recyclables have been collected by whatever means, they are usually sold, or taken to a collection point. Unless you live in a large community (which you won’t if you’re a PCV) you won’t actually have a processing facility in your area. At the collection points, the recyclables are further sorted and sold to a processing facility. You can sometimes spot the collection points by biking around and noticing places with a ton of trash in their yards. No, they’re not slobs, they’re recyclers!

The next step in the recycling process is the processing facilities. These places will (probably) further sort the materials (i.e. glossy and non glossy paper, the various types/colors of plastic). They will also usually shred the material so it is easier to transport. These processed materials are then sold to the next step in the chain, factories. At the factories the processed recyclable materials are used to create new products, which are then sold to the final link in the chain, the consumers.”

The just of it? Recycling and garbage is handled a bit differently than the US. It took us so long to wrap our minds around this because we all grew up with one way of dealing with garbage: throw it away and it goes away. Being in Thailand is the first time in my life I thought about garbage once it left the garbage bin at my house. Like every good American, I knew why recycling was important but this was the first time in my life that I had to touch and deal with garbage. As a result of my new found knowledge, I started consuming less, and sorting even more. I even requested that any package sent to me from the US be stuffed with recyclable or reusable materials. (Yes, I have the best most flexible Mom ever) I learned how to say “no bag please” in Thai and started becoming known as the reusable bag lady — yes, true story.  I brought my own take-away containers to local restaurants. Crafting became a large part of my life and I decided to only reuse items to make new and fun projects. I jumped head first into all natural beauty products so that I didn’t have to deal with all the extra bottles. I did, and still do, think about garbage a lot.

Once we secured ROOT, we started asking and meeting with every Thai person who would talk with us about garbage. We visited recycling plants, green-packaging gurus, factory scrap  geniuses and read everything we could about Thailand. It was exhilarating, overwhelming, challenging and just really, really awesome. Most recently, we attended a design camp where students were taught how to make products out of garbage! (Major supply cost-saver!) We are hoping to bring this camp to NE Thailand later this year.

From the volunteer side of things, forest clean-ups became my number one priority. We started recycling at my office and using the money we earn to support the clean-up effort. We’ve already done 2 clean-ups and number three is right around the corner. We haven’t solved the problem, as many community members continue to dump, but we are always challenging ourselves for new opportunities to improve the situation in the forest.

This is the way I see waste, it is only gross garbage once we start calling it that. If you use it and then put it away or clean it out, keep it out of a landfill it isn’t disgusting. Its reusable and the possibilities are endless. I have seen the most amazing scrap design including light fixtures, chairs, bags, pencil cases, briefcases, clothes — and this isn’t your glued water bottle/Popsicle stick projects, they are really well made and epic. You can even check out the Scrap Shop or Osisu to see what Thailand’s Best are working on. So when I say that I LOVE garbage, I mean it whole heartedly.  It is clear that we need to do something about our environmental situation. Dealing responsibly with our own garbage, buying reused, and consuming less we can make a small but beneficial difference.  I don’t expect you to walk away loving garbage as much as I do but I hope that you smile and think twice before you buy a costco size case of water bottles.

Just loving garbage!

HUGS!

C

The most recent “attack” of this feeling what yesterday when I was riding through the rice fields at sunset in an open air truck.  We had just finished touring local sustainable farms in the next city over.  We were eating delicious Thai fruit and the warm air was blowing on my face as I stared out over the bright green fields.  “I am so lucky” I thought to myself.  I looked over and caught the eye of a man who always is excited to see me no matter the language a barrier.  Then I took a second to look around the truck and silently describe what I had learned and how much I loved the people around me.  I didn’t want to be anywhere else in the world. Nothing mattered but that moment. I wanted the feeling to go on forever.  Of course it didn’t, and I was snapped back to reality when we jerked on to the main road and a dump truck blew exhaust all over us

I’ve been having more and more of these feelings as I realize that I have about 9 quick months left in Thailand.  I can’t even imagine what the day will be like when I have to leave this place.

HUGS!

-C

PS – I promise to get a blog up soon about my environment work!

This happens to be the first time that I can’t DIY (do-it-yourself) a solution to this problem.  Mostly because my ceiling is to high for me to reach. I asked Dah Jit to fix it and he just laughed and walked out the door with the tile.  Still have a hole in my ceiling and still wonder what kinds of creatures have and will be visiting me in the night.  I did find a scorpion in my living room 2 nights ago but easily swept it out the door.  Trust me on this one, you never want to squish a scorpion — the blood and guts are difficult to clean up.  I don’t think that little thing got in through the ceiling hole, I’m thinking more the space between where the front door starts and the floor ends.  I once saw a mouse get through there.

The lack of urgency to fix the hole got me thinking about my little Thai house.  Remember last year when I made that sweet slideshow? (If you don’t here it is!) My house is nothing like it used to be.  I’m not complaining because its not really like I miss the extra stuff: desk, shelving unit, propane burner, table, vanity.  However, disappearing acts take a bit of time for a “western” gal like me to get used to.  It usually happens when I return from a trip, I notice that something else is missing.  The first thought that goes through my mind (western style) is “how could they just take this from my house, I pay rent!” Then those feelings turn immediately to guilt when I realize Dah and Yai take WONDERFUL care of me.  Then I usually DIY whatever I need (Thai style) or find a way to live without it.  I think right now at my house I have a bench, TV holder (without the TV, I forgot to mention that above), broken shelving unit, a bed (with mosquito net!) and a wardrobe.  Sometimes they tell me why they took it, sometimes not. Most of the time I’ve already forgotten its missing.

With a past filled with credit card debt, these experiences have really show me that I don’t need anything. Just the basics. In fact, I would even venture a bold statement: my life has improved because I don’t have so much stuff. I think I’m on the right track for the BEST LIFE EVER.

HUGS!

-C

P.S. First real American visitor is headed my way and I CAN”T WAIT!

As many of your know firsthand, I’m much better in person – not a great phone person.  Over the last year, I haven’t put as much time into my relationship with my host family in Ayutthaya as I should have. I called them 2 times during the flooding and they said they were okay so I took their word for it.  We had some flooding in Surin but for the most, my friends made it through in one piece. 

I arrived at the bus station and after catching up with Pi Sompron for a few minutes the stories started flowing. I heard a story of Meh Nong the grandmother of my host family protesting for food coupons from the local grocery store. Neung Ern went swimming in the water and having to be taken to the closed community hospital because of some crazy disease. Pi Sompron had to build boxes out of wood to hold up her furniture.  They lived on the second floor of their next door neighbors for over a month. 

What?

Then I arrived at the house and saw the water marks half way up the wall. The bedroom I once occupied had been ripped out and only studs remained.  Anything that wasn’t in the living room was lost. 

The response when I kept telling them I couldn’t believe this happened? We are okay and had fun. All the pictures I’ve seen everyone is smiling and they even showed me a picture that made the cover of the national News.  This past year has been crazy for them but they are still the same family I last saw a little less than a year ago. I actually enjoy that we are all sharing a room; it’s a good excuse to hang out past bedtime together. How do you say snuggle in Thai?

HUGS!

-C

Heading back to Thailand was an adventure into itself.  It took longer than last time and my trip spanned three days with the time zone changes.  Leaving the airport in Seattle was like leaving for Peace Corps all over again, except this time I knew what I was headed into.  Luckily, one of my PCV bestie was arriving back from her trip home at the same time and we were able to decompress.  We sat in the bus stations waiting for our busses and shared those pesky hesitations we were having about being back.  Our stories started off about how much fun we had at home and then ended up somewhere north of how much we missed our Jai-yen-yen (cool heart, relaxed) lifestyles in Thailand. 

I decided to surprise Dah Jit and Yai Dtueng so instead of calling for a ride, I hopped in the truck of a friend I saw in town.  When I arrived, I found that their son and his girlfriend were staying in my house.  A little weird but I don’t blame them because the house was just sitting empty for a couple weeks.  I dropped off my bags and we ate dinner together as the unique family that we are.  In the course of 20 minutes, it was like I never left.

I wish I had some grandiose story or amazing revelation I had but I don’t. Life has just kept going like normal and is probably even more normal than before I left.  I remember when I was in training about a year ago, my friend Jeff and I got to visit a volunteer, Kale, who had been living in Thailand for a year longer than us.  We stayed with him for two nights and then the third day I headed off for a short visit to Tambon That.  (You can read more about it here.)  As we were headed to the bus station we asked the Kale what he would do that day.  He said something along the lines of relax, feed his pet rabbits and maybe read a book.  At that moment, nothing sounded better. My life was like a rollercoaster. Nothing was the same from one day to the next.  All I wanted to do was have a normal, easy lifestyle.  I knew that wouldn’t be in the cards for a long, long time.  Last week, Jeff and I were reminiscing with Kale and had an “ah-ha!” moment.  We have finally arrived at normal and easy-ish!

As I continue into my second year here, I am so grateful I had the opportunity to head home.  It helped me see just how lucky I am to be living and serving in Thailand.  This upcoming year will be filled with great vacations with visiting friends and family, teaching new volunteers, improving my Thai and deciding what the next step is in my life.  I think I’ve said this before but choosing to fight for a chance to serve as a Peace Corps Volunteer is the best decision I have ever made.  Thanks for the push guys.

HUGS!

-C

Well, it’s finally here! I’m leaving to head back to America this Saturday night! Excited does not properly explain my feelings! I have been looking forward to this trip for quite some time…

The only problem is that I’m terrified.

I’ve been living a totally different lifestyle (that I’ve really grown to enjoy) and I don’t know how much of that will follow me home. 

For example, I’m so calm here.  When I step off the plane, will I return to my busy, stressed American self? I have no idea. A year is a long time and I feel like a totally different girl than the one who left SeaTac last January anxious and idealistic, ready to start my adventure.  I also wonder what your reactions to me will be. Will I seem different? Plus, as some of you know, I barely wash my hair these days and I don’t think that will be as widely accepted as I would like.

I’ve had LOTS of time to think all of this over (thank you Peace Corps) and while I am terrified, I’m also ready.   I’ve still got the same heart and love for what I’m going back to that I had when I left last year. So I guess if I act a little weird during the two weeks I’m home, don’t count me out. Just give me a minute. It’s probably just that I’m uncomfortable wearing a jacket and have a stomach ache from ingesting too many holiday cheeses

HUGS!

-C

A few months ago, on a phone call with my parents, my birthday was discussed. Lets be honest, it’s me, I’m always thinking about my birthday months in advance.  I think my friend Katie put it best: “Christine Duffy birthdays are typically one of my favorite events of the year! Because let’s be honest, they aren’t parties, they are events!” So when Chuck and Kel asked what I had planned I explained this idea: I’m spending it all alone. Imagine the surprise for them! Their favorite first born wanted to celebrate alone? Well, I’ve spent the last year alone. I’ve lived in a place where I’m still learning the language and customs.  From this experience I’ve grown to really love myself.  I’ve learned to appreciate so many things that I never imagined I would.  This past year has been about me and myself spending some quality time together.  Now this might sound like I’ve been in the jungles of Thailand a little too long but who else would I want to celebrate my 26^th birthday with? So instead of the regular hoopla that surrounds this fantastic day, I only shared about my birthday when asked and downplayed the whole thing.  The day of, a few people did the Thai rendition of “Happy Birthday” which is always fun and offered to throw a party but I politely declined. Instead, I spent the day silently thinking back on the past year and reminding myself how far I’ve come. I also got in a few great skype birthday chats and that night I unwrapped my gifts from home (which were so amazing and thoughtful!) and listened to my favorite holiday music.  I finished reading another book and journaled. It was delightful!

Another reason I didn’t want to draw attention to the day of my birth is because not many Thai people celebrate individual birthdays.  I think I’ve been to one birthday party since arriving.  Like many of you know, Thailand is a collectivist society so families usually celebrate all birthdays one day a year!  

Annnd as cheesy as this may sound, it feels like my birthday everyday in Thailand.  I am reminded daily of the love and friendship that has grown for me here.   What more can a gal ask for? Being in Thailand is one of the best gifts I have ever given myself.

I must say after making a point to celebrate “kon dio” (alone) I’ve come to the conclusion that as fun as it was, I enjoy having all of you there with me.  I’ve always said I like making my b-day such a big deal because it brings all of the people I love together! So don’t worry…Christine epic birthdays have not been shelved, they are just taking a break.  It is giving me enough extra time to think of something even more fun and exciting than ever for the year I get home

HUGS!

-C

PS Less than 3 weeks until I demand hugs, drink lots of coffee and tell you all about Thailand in person!

I think this crazy connection is best illistrated by sharing the story of… Halloween!  I celebrated by inviting some of the little girls in my village over for a little English/American culture night.  I prepared all day and had fun Halloween signs, candy, tools for teaching…the whole nine yards! Even the moms came over so it turned into Halloween girls night! It was so much fun! We laughed and laughed and managed to finish the night with a pretty strong sugar high. I taught using different words, crazy symbols and all kinds of fun gestures. If the girls didn’t understand, some of my friends (the moms) would step in and finish my sentences before I even knew I needed help!

The unique language I speak represents the unique connection I have with many members of my community.  This connection can never be replicated by another volunteer and is something we will always share.  I am sure that this unique  language is a once in a lifetime feeling.  I’m accepting it one day at a time.  Do I want to be a perfect, fluent Thai speaker? Of course. Until I get there, Thaigline or Englai works just fine

HUGS!

-C

P.S. All I want for Christmas is you! (less than two months!) The Christmas spirit has officially invaded Thailand!

Oh, wait, just kidding, rural Thailand doesn’t have paper towels.  This past weekend milk was spilled, everywhere. I now totally get it.

I had a great three day weekend, I got all kinds of stuff done around my rental house.  I gave my compost pile a makeover, I made more crafting glue, I cleaned my bike (well I intended to anyways) and even found a use for the crazy ear-root-vegetable that I’ve had in the back of my fridge for the last week. I also did some “spring” cleaning inside my house and built screens for the windows in my bedroom using my Peace Corps issued mosquito net.  All in all, it was a great weekend. Except for the milk. 

Each week, I purchase 4 little plastic bottles of milk at the congtome (market) and use them for my oatmeal and coffee.  I can only enjoy the milk in the morning because, in the words of Ron Burgundy standing in the midday sun, “It’s so damn hot. Milk was a bad choice.” He totally gets me. Back on topic: the woman who sells the milk has a big blue cooler attached to her motorcycle and brings the milk in from the main city in my district.  I opened my fridge on Sunday and noticed that one of the open bottles had spilled.  My first reaction? Shut the door. Pretend it didn’t happen. I had just finshed washing a big batch of dirty rags in the blazing hot sun and the thought of getting one of them dirty…

So frusterating. Today is Tuesday and I still haven’t cleaned out my fridge. The milk is still there. Maybe I will clean it today.

The moral of the story? Don’t cry over spilled milk. Even if you have to clean it up using questionable cleaning products you made yourself, wash the rag by hand in the blazing sun and then two seconds later get the rag dirty again. Or in my case, add a few extra days before you begin.  My Thai’m (see what I did there? Thanks Tracy!) in Thailand is flying by and I need to focus on the good parts. Even though the little things can, eventually, make you a little crazy…just let go. Mai-bpen-rai (no problem) and go on with your day.  Things always work out.

I mean after all, it is just spilled milk.

HUGS!

-C

Check out the new slideshow I uploaded showing my Thai house!

Meh Nong, Pi Sompron and Erm are constantly in my thoughts! Please include them in yours.   

 HUGS!

-C

Dear friends and family:

This is where you come in. The volunteers of Group 123 have set up a website to accept donations that will directly help our host families and their neighbors.

100% of donations, excluding transactional fees, will go directly to the families in need living in Ayutthaya, Thailand.  Proceeds will be used for food, water, boats, clothes, medical supplies and other resources.

Please click on the link below and help us in whatever way you can. No donation is too small (or too large).

http://ayutthayaflooding.wordpress.com/

Thank you in advance for your support.

 Peace Corps Thailand Group 123

 Disclaimer: This website is not endorsed by, and does not reflect any official position held by the Peace Corps.

Okay, I know, starting with a quote isn’t the best way to start a blog post buuuuuuut I really like this one and today was really hard.  (insert silly, unnecesary pouty face here) It was the first step in the biggest project I’ve worked on since moving to site.  I presented about cleaning our Community Forest and recycling.  To help you better understand, let me paint you a picture of how I got to this very spot on this very day.

1.  Go to the reconnect conference with my assistant mayor. —> 2.  With help from Peace Corps (translators!)  we figure out that we both want to work on a project focused on cleaning the Community Forest. —>3.  We return to site. —> 4. I think he forgot about the project! —> 5. He doesn’t forget.  He is really excited! We are both excited! —>6. We apply to attend the Peace Corps Project Design Mangagement Conference. —> 7. My English Speaking counterpart (who I am constantly at odds with) tries to get an invitation. —> 7.5. I immediately stop that from happening. —> 8.  We attend the Peace Corps Project Design Management Conference and began planning our project  —> 9. Day two of the conference cultural difference almost sideline us! —>10. At the end of day 2 we shake hands and take our Clean Community Project  basic outline back to site. —> 11. I wonder how/when we would finish the project. —> 12. We present what we had to the Mayor and City Planner. —>13. Lots of discussion in Isan language (NE Thailand dialect) —> 14. I can understand just a little. —> 15. A date is picked for a Recycling/Clean Community Meeting. —> 16. Three weeks pass. —> 17. Every week I asked when we would start planning. —> 18. They tell me not to worry. I worry. —> 19. Two days before the presentation I corner my mayor and asked what I should prepare. —> 20.  He instructs me to take pictures of the community forest and create a PowerPoint presentation. —>21. No problem. —> 22. Day before the meeting. —>23.  Give the PowerPoint presentation to my English speaking counterpart. (He offered to help me translate) —> 24. He promises to finish translating it that day. —> 25. He leaves for an all day meeting. —> 26. 5pm day before the meeting. —> 27. English speaking counterpart tries to pass off the translation on my visiting friend. —> 28. I ask my friend to step out of the office. —> 29. I present a strongly worded argument as to why I am frusterated. —> 30. My friend helps him translate. —> 31. 6pm the day before the meeting. —> 32. I return home and work on the presentation. —> 32.5. I still need a couple words translated. —> 33. Day of the presentation. —> 34. I get to work early. —> 35. No one shows up until 10 minutes before the presentation.  —> 36. I ask my English Speaking counterpart to help me translate the last few words. —> 37. He tells me that he doesn’t have time. —> 38. “Don’t worry Christine” he says. —> 39. He re-did the entire presentation last night. —> 40. Left out vital information and added what he thought should be in the presentation. —> 41. My hand balls into a punching fist when I realize I have to now do HIS presentation. —> 42. Realize I have not practiced the new presentation with my Assistant Mayor/Thai speaking counterpart. —> 43. Find out the 20 invited kids from the High School cannot attend the meeting. —>44. My eyes fill with frusterated tears. —> 45. I realize that this meeting is nothing like how I envisioned it. —> 46. The speaker that goes before me is late. —> 47. I have to start my presentaion now. —> 48. I panic (inside) —> 49. My Thai and English counterparts join me at the front of the room. —> 50. I start speaking in Thai. —> 51. My English counterpart talks over me. —> 52. I take a deep breath. —> 53. Let it go. —> 54. The presentation goes great. —> 55. The next speaker shows up. —> 56. Presentation goes great. —> 57. We start the open discussion about how to deal with the garbage problem in our Community Forest. —> 58. It lasts over an hour. —> 59. Everyone is yelling because they didn’t like the points I brought up. —>60. Just kidding. —> 61. They are yelling because this is the first time they have openly talked about this problem. —> 62. They are happy. —>63. It is over. —> 64. I am not mad, I am somewhat happy. —> 65. I realize that all I wanted to was to start a discussion and move forward with cleaning and recycling in the Community Forest. I’ve done just that  —> 66. A lady selling Elephant design shirts comes to my office. —> 67. I buy one out of impulse.

Okay, so the reason I chose this quote is because it was” dropped on my doorstep” by a fellow volunteer who is facing her own challenges.  As volunteers we fly by the seat of our pants. I am definitely not used to living this way but I’m slowly adapting.  I spoke with my Peace Corps Project Manager after the presentation and she reminded me that I’m not going to have much luck changing all the people around me so I should probably work on adpating the best I can.  Good thing I’m all in because this is the hardest 2 years of my life.

Hugs!

C

PS See you in a little over three months…yay!!!

When I first came to visit my future rental home a few months ago, I was greeted by a stone faced woman and a man who constantly scream-talked to me.  At this point, not much has changed   I manage to get a smile out of Yai Dueng on a more regular basis but other than that everything has stayed the same. 

They are farmers by trade and behind our compound (two houses for them, one for me) lay beautiful rice fields and a duck house.  We also have chickens and a newly planted garden thanks to Peace Corps gift of seeds. 

Dah Jit loves to fix things and work.  I have yet to find something that he cannot remedy.  For example, when I first moved into my rental house, a second house that looked like it was falling apart was located behind mine.  Instead of tearing it down, Dah Jit bought some stilts and borrowed a crane and moved the house all the way across the yard!  He never wastes anything and reuses almost everything.  He never wears a shirt and loves to sing karaoke.  He actually has a GIANT sound system that he turns on every evening and sings his heart out.  Weird at first, now I don’t even notice.  Dah Jit also thinks I am the strongest man in my village.  I’m at least a head taller than most of the men and really can lift more than they can so whenever he needs help he asks, well scream-talks, for my help.

Yai Dueng is the opposite of Dah Jit, quiet and unassuming until she screams for me to “ma gin-cao” (come eat).  When I first moved into the house, she was all up in my business…checking the refrigerator to see what I bought, making sure my laundry was clean, sweeping my floors when I wasn’t.  At first, I was a little taken a back, who does this woman think she is? You can’t just come into someones life like that?! Actually you can, especially if you are Yai Dueng.  I mistook her caring ways as snooping.  She just wants me to be taken care of and treats me just like her own.  Even though she isn’t outwardly loving, I know she really cares for me in her heart

Like I said in my last post, I eat dinner with Yai Dueng and Dah Jit every night.  I bring over the plates and the rice cooker while Yai Dueng is finishes dinner.  Dah Jit joins us after he has finished up his daily work and we eat together.  Yai Dueng knows my favorite dishes and they both understand my Thai-glish.  Inevitably, Dah Jit will ask “Pappa gap Mamma Meung Thai chuu i-yang?” (What are your Thai parents names?) and I will respond “Dah Jit gap Yai Dueng”.  The funny thing about this question is that mamma and pappa are not part of the Thai language.  I’m guessing someone taught them some Italian?

I’m even being introduced around the village now as their daughter.  It is funny to watch the reaction of a new person who doesn’t know the “farang” (foreigner) — they just can’t seem to grasp that a blue eyed blond girl came from a Thai couple. 

I appreciate these two because they offer a support system that I was feeling lost without in Thailand.  They are consistent and care for me, even if my not-so-great Thai speaking skills appear.  They give me space when I need it and fix things around the house when they are broken.  They even feed Baksida when I’m away from site – no questions asked! I have heard many other volunteers stories (more like horror stories) about moving into their own house so I’m counting my blessings!  Thank goodness for these two!

Miss you!

C

Guess who is turning into a walking Peace Corps cliché? Yep, I have Peace Corps written all over me.  I think my weekly visit to the market on Tuesdays is the best example. 

Since the market is only once a week, I really have to plan ahead.  The week before, I collect my list on an already USED piece of paper.  Then I grab my RECYCLED reusable tote and bag.  I then ride my BIKE to work for the day. When the market opens, I WALK there in my gently USED dress.  Of course, I WAVE and SMILE at everyone along the way.  I start at the VEGETABLE stalls and always try to purchase from a different vendor each week.  I want to TALK to as many people as I can. Next is the FRUIT stalls and I always buy what is in SEASON. (Actually, that is all that is offered).  Then I stop by the crispy rice stall to buy ONE unhealthy snack.  The woman who owns the stand knows me by name and I don’t even have to remind her that I DO NOT USE PLASTIC and therefore do not want a plastic bag. I then stop by the fermented fish stand and buy a GIFT for my nextdoor neighbor Yai Dueng.  A couple rows over is the household isle.  I am very CAREFUL there because I know that buying unnecessary products just creates more waste that will eventually be burned. After that I get back on my BIKE and wobble my way home.  When I get home, I CLEAN all my fruits and vegetables.  I also refill my REUSABLE water bottles in the refrigerator (okay, I’m not 100% PCV) and BOIL my eggs.  I then empty my COMPOST garbage from the week before into my COMPOST BIN. 

I think you will agree with me, that I fit the Peace Corps Volunteer role quite nicely.  The craziest part of the whole thing is that I actually adore this lifestyle.  I feel very aware.  I’m aware of what I’m putting into my body. I’m also very aware of where things end up when I’m finished with them. I’m aware of the power of composting and the earth.  I’m aware of others feelings.  I’m aware of the difference between a want and a need.  I’m aware of how I feel. I’m aware of my body and its reaction to different foods.  So maybe the point of this whole post is fitting into the Peace Corps role means, really, that you are aware? Who knows. I guess I will just continue living this very aware lifestyle

Saw this great TEDTalk after writing this blog and I think its worth checking out!

http://www.ted.com/talks/rachel_botsman_the_case_for_collaborative_consumption.html

Miss you!

C

PS – Can you believe it’s only 4 months until I come home for my visit? I can’t…time is flying by!

I don’t really cook for myself that much.  I usually eat breakfast at home — a hard boiled egg and some fruit.  Then for lunch I eat with my co-workers at local restaurants.  It can be anything from Som-dtom-laos (spicy papaya salad with fermented fish) to American style Pad-see-ew.  For dinner I eat with my next door neighbors, Da Jit and Yai Deung.  Yai Dueng makes awesome Isaan Food.  The basis of our meals is locally grown jasmine rice and is usually accompanied by a vegetable dish and a fish or pork dish.  Even though we are landlocked, the white fish here is delightful!  For the most part, the dishes are served “soupy” and  I figure it makes it easier to eat large amounts of rice.  We eat lots of curry as well.  I usually bring over some sort of dish to add to the meal.  Last night I made gang-kia-wan (green curry) but for the most part I try to bring something “American” so that they can try something new.  Yai Dueng isn’t a big fan but Da Jit has started yelling “Christine tamahan number 1!” (Christine’s cooking number 1!)  This is a big compliment because Thai food is so good.  The fact that I’m making something that they like, is even better.  Da Jit might be greng-jai-ing (making me feel comfortable) by saying he likes it…whatever, I’m going with it.

In America we “prep” vegetables by cutting the ends off.  No need to do that here, it just doesn’t make any sense to waste.  In most cases yum, but in some cases yikes!  I’ve watched many people  pick from bushes along the side of the road and then (without washing) eat it raw with dinner.  However, one of the best parts of living in rural Thailand is the locally grown produce.  For the most part, it is grown with chemicals but it is so fresh! Unlike Ammmmmerica, it doesn’t need to travel very far to make it on to my plate. 

The fruit in Thailand is unreal.  SO GOOD. Mango season brought the introduction of cao-neo-mamuang (mango sticky rice). Currently, we are in Nga season (rambouten) which  I had never eaten before living in Thailand.  It isn’t an over exaggeration to say it is my favorite fruit of all time.  I’m also currently eating Dragon fruit and the queen of fruits, mangostene.  Right now is also Durian season and any SE Asian traveler can tell you, it stinks.  Each person describes it differently, but the smell is just awful — so much so that people cannot bring it in many busses, vans and taxis.  I’ve tried it and it reminded me of a gasy smelling banana. 

I almost forgot the mention the drink selection! If I were looking for an alcoholic beverage (I’m not, my community is full of alcoholics.) than my selection is limited.  I could  have Hong-Tong Thai Whiskey and Soda or maybe one of three beers that are sold in my community.  None of which compare to the Seattle micro-brews.  Soda is different here, it has less fizz and more sugar.  Chai nom yen (Thai iced tea) is delightful but also super sweet.  Thailand has this fruit flavoring  (a bit like the flavorings for coffee) it is so sweet it makes my teeth hurt.  Thais just mix it with water or drink it by itself.  I cannot drink it, no matter how many times I try.

I manage to sneak in a few processed foods, a bag of chips n occasion or crackers, but for the most part I’m eating everything locally.  I really enjoy this lifestyle because I know where my food comes from and I also know the farmers who grow it.  It does take more work to cook and prepare food but I feel healthier and I think my waistline is thanking me.   

If you come visit, I will introduce you to all of it — except maybe the crickets and ant eggs. Unless you are interested…

Miss you!

C

PS – My computer is officially fixed and on its way back to Bangkok! When I get it back, I promise, more blogs and skype dates!

1.  (Obviously) they keep the pests away.

2. Talking to yourself isn’t quite as weird.

3. No TV? No problem, Thai cats are hours of entertainment. Last I checked, Baksida has a vertical of at least 4 feet!

4. They spend most of the day outside.

5. No tail — seriously they only have a nub! (I don’t know why this made the list other than its cool?)

6. They eat anything and everything.  No need to purchase cat food!

7. Too many kids hanging around your house? A kitten is an easy distraction. Keeps them at bay for at least a half hour!

8. When you do feel that pang of loneliness, you can snuggle.  (By snuggle I mean get your face scratched off and then you will be busy cleaning your wounds and forget just why you were lonely in the first place!)

9. Maybe your mom, like mine, will grow concerned for the kitten and send extra packages with extra gifts for you!

10. THE NUMBER 10 REASON IS…You can name is Baksida (foreigner) and then ask why people are always talking about your cat?

Miss you!

C

“We have to share the road so don’t stare at me.  Just eat the grass.  My bike can’t really wade through the water as well as you can.  Please don’t charge me…I knew I should have taken the long way.”

It is a regular occurance that I face a water buffalo heard on my bike ride through the villages.  You might have seen a picture or two and wonder why on earth I would be afraid of them? They are just like cows, only bigger.  Except they have the most intense eyes, and they always seem to be looking directly into yours.  Its like they can see your soul and all of your secrets. They also stare for a pro-longed period of time.    It is usually just the biggest one that stares me down.  Just like he/she is checking to see what I’m going to do, reading my thoughts!  Maybe even checking to see if I’ve eaten beef while living in Thailand.

I haven’t really been able to find any statistics about Water Buffalo attacks in SE Asia so I’m guessing its slim to none.  They are really amazing animals (from far away!) that spend part of the day swimming around in the ponds that are littered throughout my community.  They even have those cute birds that hang out on their backs during the afternoon.  I don’t think I should add these to my list of animals to avoid (snakes, giant bugs, etc) it is just they are so huge and those eyes…

I hope they can’t smell fear.

Miss you!

C